De-stink Your Dogs, Naturally!

One of our dogs is a German shepherd mix, which means she has a medium-length, thick coat with an even thicker undercoat. She also LOVES to swim! One dip in the lake, and her smell will send you running for days! That coat just traps everything in. It takes a long time to dry, and the lovely lake smell just lingers in there.

Dog groomers recommend you bathe your dog no more than once every 6-8 weeks. Why not? Over-bathing can quickly lead to dry, dandruffy skin and excess shedding. So how do you manage the stink between baths? Use this great deodorizing spray! Simply spray into coat, work in with your hands, and allow it to air dry. For heavier, thicker coats, two or three applications may be required to fully deodorize.

Now I know you can buy all sorts of waterless shampoos and deodorizing sprays at the pet store, but I would encourage you to read through the ingredient list. Most of them include all sorts of artificial ingredients and harsh chemicals. Those ingredients typically just mask the smell, and they often dry out the dog’s skin and coat as well.

This recipe uses only filtered water and certified pure therapeutic grade essential oils. Essential oils are unique because they can actually alter the chemical compound of other things. That means they can change what’s causing the stink and get rid of it completely. Now, be sure to use only pure oils–I ONLY use and recommend doTERRA oils (get yours here). Certainly don’t use the oils available at your grocery and box stores; most of them aren’t pure…even if they claim to be.

If your dog has dry, itchy skin to begin with, you can also replace half the water in the recipe with pure aloe juice (get it here). Aloe is widely known for its soothing qualities and can be quite beneficial for dogs with dry, irritated, or itchy skin.

Additionally, you’ll need a glass spray bottle for storage. Pure essential oils are quite potent and can eat through plastic bottles over time. Cobalt or amber glass also maintain the purity of the oils for longer periods of time than clear glass. Get them here. Store your spray in a cool, dark area when not in use.

The recipe below is for a four-ounce bottle. You can of course adjust quantities as needed for smaller or larger bottles. If your dog has especially dry, irritated, or itchy skin, you can also add 2 drops frankincense to the recipe.


  • Filtered water
  • 10 drops lavender essential oil
  • 3 drops Roman chamomile essential oil
  • 2 drops peppermint essential oil

To make it, simply add essential oils to your bottle, fill with water, cap, and shake. Shake before each use. Then, spray over the dog’s coat, work in with your hands, and allow to air dry.

Doggie Deodorizing Spray.png

DIY Kitty Litter (and Carpet!) Deodorizer

litterdeodorizerIf you have cats, you know their litter boxes can get stinky in a hurry! And, if you’ve bought litter deodorizer at the pet store, you know how expensive it is. It’s EASY and inexpensive to make your own at home. You just need a pint glass jar, baking soda, and high-quality essential oils. The other awesome thing about this recipe is that it makes an excellent carpet deodorizer as well!

Please do NOT use low-quality oils with your cats. Cats are extremely sensitive to many things, and the oils you can pick up at the box or grocery store are absolutely NOT safe for them. If you’ve been reading my blog for a while, you know I only use and recommend doTERRA oils. Additionally, only certain oils should be used with cats, so please don’t use something different unless you know it’s safe for them.


  • Baking soda, approx. 2 cups
  • 10-30 drops essential oils*

*When making litter deodorizer, I use 5 drops lavender and 5 drops cedarwood. Although citrus oils are excellent for deodorizing, they are not recommended for use with cats. Pure lavender and cedarwood are safe for cats, and they are also great for deodorizing. When making carpet deodorizer specifically, I use 30 drops of essential oils, and I like to use doTERRA’s proprietary blend Purify. It includes a number of oils that work together to pack a powerhouse for cleaning. HOWEVER, some of the oils in Purify are not safe for cats or dogs, so I don’t recommend it if you have pets in the house. For pet owners, I recommend sticking with lavender and cedarwood even for the carpet deodorizer.

Make It:

  1. Fill your pint jar approximately half full with baking soda.
  2. Add essential oils.
  3. Fill the jar the rest of the way with baking soda, leaving about a half-inch of head space.
  4. Cap and shake to combine.

Use It:

  • For litter deodorizing, simply sprinkle over the litter after cleaning the box once daily or every other day. When first using, I recommend gradually introducing it to your cats. Add it less often, and add it to just one box for a few days before using it with other boxes.
  • For carpet deodorizing, sprinkle over affected area, allow to sit for a minimum of 8 hours undisturbed, and vacuum.

Don’t want to make it yourself? Buy it now! Click here for litter deodorizer. Click here for carpet deodorizer.

diy pup paw balm


Does your dog have dry, cracked pads? Does he need some protection from the heat of the sidewalk or asphalt or cold of the snow and ice? He needs paw balm! Simply apply a thin layer for relief or before heading out into the elements. Because it’s all-natural, it can be re-applied often!

And, bonus…I add essential oils to mine! Since the pads are an awesome application area for essential oils, this balm offers a great dual purpose. Choose essential oils that are beneficial for your dog and his needs. If you choose to add essential oils, be sure to use only certified pure therapeutic grade oils. I use and recommend doTERRA oils.

The recipe below will fill two 6-oz tins, so adjust accordingly. Not sure where to get the tins? Click here. I use a digital kitchen scale to measure the ingredients, but it doesn’t have to be perfect. Approximations are provided as well. Links to Amazon are also provided for the ingredients.


  • 1 oz (approx. 2 tbsp) olive oil or sweet almond oil
  • 1 oz (approx. 2 tbsp) coconut oil
  • 1/2 oz (approx. 1 tbsp) shea butter
  • 2 tsp beeswax
  • 20-40 drops *essential oils of choice (optional)

Make It:

  1. Using a digital scale, measure oils, butter, and beeswax in a glass container. I like to use the Pyrex spouted, handled measuring cups.
  2. Melt oils, butter, and beeswax in the microwave or double boiler.
  3. Add essential oils if using, and whisk.
  4. Pour into tin, and allow to cool before capping.

*Essential oils have many benefits for dogs. I use this balm on my oldest dog, who has arthritis. His arthritis causes minor muscle tremors and weakness in his back legs. As a result, his back feet tend to slide a bit on hard floors. This balm not only provides a little traction for his pads, but it’s also a great way to get essential oils in his bloodstream to help (at least partially) alleviate the effects of arthritis. I use 25 drops lavender and 10 drops frankincense. Want to know more about essential oils for dogs? Click here.

all-natural soothing dog shampoo


Did you know…many commercial pet shampoos contain drying agents to help the coat dry faster. These chemicals and artificial additives can also dry out the dog’s skin–resulting in itchy, dandruffy skin; excessive shedding; and a dull coat. Additionally, when the pet is bathed too often (more than once every 6-8 weeks) with these shampoos, those potential side effects become even worse!

When our oldest dog developed papillomavirus (a condition actually quite common among older dogs), I of course started to do my research. Papillomavirus causes wart-like growths on the skin. These growths are generally benign, but they can be itchy and will occasionally break open and bleed or ooze. Gross and ouch, right?? As an essential oil educator, I knew I could find something natural to help soothe him. I also knew using a natural shampoo meant I could bathe him more frequently! He now gets a bath about once every two weeks. The essential oils in the recipe are optional, but they are both great for soothing the skin and disinfecting. They also add a nice, subtle fragrance.

For this recipe, you’ll need an 8-oz glass pump bottle (cobalt or amber preferred). Not sure where to get one? Check out this post.


Make It:

  1. Add all ingredients to bottle and shake well.
  2. Shake before each use.

Because this is an all-natural shampoo, it won’t get as sudsy as a commercial shampoo will. Rest assured, it’s still doing its job! Resist the urge to use more to make up for it. Also, as I mentioned earlier, this shampoo can be used more often since it’s made of all-natural ingredients. Bathe up to once per week if needed.


manage your pup’s arthritis, joint, and muscle pain with essential oils


Our oldest dog, Jake, is now 13+ years old. He’s a mix breed built like a dachshund or corgi–long body, short legs. We always knew that would cause stress on his back, hips, and joints, and it’s definitely showing now with his age. He has a tougher time jumping up on furniture, his back legs are weak and occasionally tremble, and he struggles to stand firmly on tile and other slippery surfaces.

We had tried some meds from the vet, but none of them helped much. Plus, they were expensive and came with potential long-term side effects. Being a family focused on natural remedies whenever possible, I started to research essential oils for arthritic dogs. I tried a couple different combinations and application methods (what might work great for one person or dog might not work at all for another) and found one that helped! I now use a roller bottle for him 2-3 times per day, and he gets the doTERRA Deep Blue® supplement once a day. I am amazed with the improvements in a short period of time!

The Roller Bottle:

Because he’s a small dog (and a dog in general), it’s important to use the right dilution when using essential oils for him. To mix up this roller bottle, you’ll need a 10-mL roller bottle (amber or cobalt preferred) and fractionated coconut oil in addition to the essential oils. Not sure where to get the roller bottle? Click here. *NOTE: be sure to use only certified pure therapeutic grade essential oils. I use and recommend doTERRA oils. Make it:

  1. Add 2 drops each of lavender and white fir essential oils to a 10-mL roller bottle.
  2. Add 1 drop each of frankincense, lemongrass, and peppermint to the bottle.
  3. Fill bottle with fractionated coconut oil.
  4. Shake to mix.

To use it, roll it under the dog’s “armpits” or along the spine. Be sure to get the oils on the skin rather than allowing them to just soak into the hair. Apply 2-3 times per day for ongoing maintenance or as needed for injuries.

The Deep Blue® Supplement:

There’s no better explanation of this awesome product than the one right from the doTERRA website:

“The brand name Deep Blue® is synonymous with relief for sore and tired muscles. The CPTG Certified Pure Therapeutic Grade® essential oil blend as well as the rub have provided comfort to many and are trusted among their users. It only makes sense that an ingestible supplement would complement the topical benefits of the Deep Blue product line.*

Deep Blue Polyphenol Complex delivers polyphenol extracts of frankincense, turmeric, green tea, ginger, pomegranate, and grape seed, and is designed to provide soothing support to aching muscles and to other occasional discomfort.* Take as needed when discomfort presents itself, or take it every day for long-lasting benefits.*”

*These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

For (human) adults, the dosage of this supplement is two capsules per day (one morning and one evening) with food. In addition to Jake (who is about 15 pounds), we also have a German shepherd dog mix weighing about 65 pounds. Since she has the typical GSD hips, we give her the Deep Blue® supplement as well. I split one capsule between the two of them, twice per day (with breakfast and dinner). I open the capsule and sprinkle about 2/3 of the powder onto Bergen’s (the GSD) food and the rest onto Jake’s.

Since we started the roller bottle and Deep Blue® supplement, Jake is getting around much better, and we were able to stop giving Bergen her daily dose of Deramaxx®. It’s empowering knowing I’m helping manage their mobility with all-natural supplements!

Want to learn more about essential oils for pets? Check out this post!

intro to essential oils and pets


The aromatherapy benefits of essential oils for humans is no secret. It shouldn’t be a surprise, then, that they can have similar benefits for pets. It’s important to remember, though, that pets can and will respond to them in much different ways than we will. When using oils with your pets, always consult your veterinarian and an essential oil expert.

What are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are naturally occurring compounds found in the seeds, roots, bark, flowers, and other parts of plants. They give plants their distinctive smells, and they play a role in pollination. Essential oils have long been used for food preparation, beauty treatment, and healthcare.

Think of it this way–plants can’t run away to escape predators or environmental threats. Instead, they rely on the oils they produce for protection. Those oils can neutralize and repel pests and pathogens.

Not All Oils are Created Equal

Have you shopped for essential oils? You’ve probably noticed there are LOTS out there! They are not all created equal. Many of them have added ingredients that at best take away from the effectiveness of the oil and at worst result in adverse effects. When using essential oils (for yourself and for your pets), be sure to only choose therapeutic grade oils that go through rigorous testing. I personally use and recommend doTERRA oils.

doTERRA oils are certified pure therapeutic grade. They go through eight tests to verify purity. What does that mean? It means you know you’re getting pure, quality oils, free of additives and artificial ingredients. Read more here.

A Few of My Favorite Oils to Consider

We use essential oils for our dogs for a number of things including flea/tick repellent, deodorizing, calming, and arthritis relief. Because animals tend to have a much stronger sense of smell than humans, always dilute oils for pets in a carrier oil. The following oils are safe for use with pets:

  • Cedarwood: Cedarwood is a great all-purpose oil. It has calming effects and is a good bug repellent.
  • Fennel: Fennel helps break up toxins and fluid in tissue. It balances pituitary, thyroid, and pineal glands.
  • Frankincense: Frankincense is my second go-to oil for pets. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it great for aches and pains associated with injuries or arthritis.
  • Geranium: This one is a key ingredient in our flea/tick repellent collars. It is an excellent bug repellent.
  • Lavender: Often referred to as the all-purpose oil, lavender has a wide variety of benefits and uses. It is great for calming for the nervous dog and when introducing new things. It may also help with allergies, burns, ulcers, insomnia, car sickness, and more. When in doubt, lavender is often the oil I recommend trying first.
  • Spearmint: This oil can help to reduce weight. It is good for colic, diarrhea, and nausea, and it helps balance metabolism.
  • Wild Orange: The citrus aroma of wild orange is uplifting and calms the mind and stomach. I use it with lavender in my calming spray.

Specific Oils to Avoid

Because pets have a much stronger sense of smell and are typically much smaller than we are, some oils should be avoided completely. I never recommend use of the following oils with pets:

  • Basil; also present in doTERRA proprietary blend AromaTouch
  • Cassia
  • Cinnamon; also present in doTERRA proprietary blends Cheer, OnGuard, and Passion
  • Clove
  • Melaleuca (aka tea tree); also present in doTERRA proprietary blends Breathe and Purify
  • Oregano
  • Pine; also present in doTERRA proprietary blend Purify
  • Thyme; also present in doTERRA proprietary blend Forgive
  • Wintergreen; also present in doTERRA proprietary blend Deep Blue (only found in oil; supplement is safe)


Dilution is essential. Essential oils should always be diluted in a carrier oil when using them with pets. I use fractionated coconut oil as a carrier. Dilution percentages vary based on the size of the dog:

  • X-small breeds (up to 10 pounds): 2%, approx. 10-12 drops per ounce of carrier oil
  • Small breeds (11-25 pounds): 3%, approx. 15-18 drops per ounce of carrier oil
  • Medium breeds (26-50 pounds): 4%, approx. 20-24 drops per ounce of carrier oil
  • Large breeds (51-90 pounds): 5%, approx. 27-31 drops per ounce of carrier oil
  • X-large breeds (91+ pounds): 6%, approx. 32-37 drops per ounce of carrier oil

Cats, birds, and rodents are much more sensitive to oils than dogs. Personally, I don’t use any oils directly on my cats for this reason. Additionally, if oils are diffused near cats, birds, or rodents, they should be heavily diluted.

When diffusing oils, always ensure all pets (but especially cats, birds, and rodents) have an exit if needed. If the smell becomes too much for them, it’s important they can get to an area free of the aroma.

Allow pets to smell the oils by simply opening the bottle in their presence before using the oils on them. If the pet is bothered by the smell, put the oil away and try again the next day. Only use oils that are not bothersome to the pet.

Melaleuca is especially toxic to pets and should not be used on dogs or cats. I won’t even diffuse melaleuca in their presence. Some folks may disagree, but I tend to err on the side of caution; better safe than sorry.

So-called “hot” oils should be avoided for both dogs and cats. They get their nickname because they can cause a warming sensation. This sensation tends to be too intense for pets. Hot oils include cinnamon, clove, oregano, and thyme. On the flip side, peppermint is known for its cooling sensation. It should be used with caution, as the cooling sensation may also be a bit intense for pets.

Never use essential oils around the eyes, nose, mouth, or genitals, and never put essential oils into the pet’s ears.

For best absorption, oils should be applied on the skin of the armpits, between pads, or on the spine. If applying to the spine, be sure to part the hair and get the oils onto the skin.

Need Some Help?

If you want to get started with essential oils for your pets, please contact me. I’m happy to arrange a wellness consult to discuss the benefits and cautions with you.


in-ground doggie waste disposal system

When we installed our in-ground waste disposal system, we had three dogs. One is large (about 65 pounds), one is small (about 15 pounds), and one was medium (she has since passed away) and had some digestive issues that resulted in what seemed like non-stop pooping! As you can imagine, backyard cleanup was a daily task. We filled a bucket to go in the garbage can pretty quickly. That’s when we decided to look into an in-ground system. *I should probably note that dog and cat waste cannot be added to your regular compost and cannot be used in your garden. Installing an in-ground system is actually pretty easy. The worst part is digging the hole!

Step #1: Choose your location and dig your hole.

We put ours in the back of our yard behind our shed. While the smell is somewhat contained, you’ll definitely be able to smell it if you’re close to it, so choose wisely. Most of the systems recommend digging three feet deep. That’s probably a great plan if you have just one little dog. If you have big dogs or multiple dogs, though, I would recommend going at least six feet deep. The good news is the hole doesn’t have to be wide, so don’t let a six foot dig scare you away! A post hole digger actually works really well.

Step #2: Add pea rock to the bottom of the hole.

The key to the system working is drainage (or lack thereof). The addition of the water and enzymes is what breaks down the waste. If you have sandy, looser soil, the water may drain too quickly to adequately break down the waste, so you’ll want to add water more frequently. If you have clay or harder soil, you may have a bit better luck since the water won’t drain as quickly. In any case, a layer of rock at the bottom of your hole will help to maintain the hole and regulate drainage. Pea rock is great, but any type of smaller rock will do.

Step #3: Place your lid.

There are plenty brands out there that make this “system.” All you’re really buying, though, is a lid. The hole does all the work; you just need something to cover it. If you’re handy, you could certainly make your own. The one we bought at the time isn’t actually made anymore, but this Four Paws one is pretty similar. When you place the lid over your hole, I recommend digging it into the ground a bit to keep it in place. Then pack your dirt back around it for security.

Now You’re Ready to Use It:

  1. Add waste to system as it’s picked up. (Resist the urge to fill it with everything that’s been sitting around for the last month! It will never catch up and break down.)
  2. Add water to the system daily. This often isn’t part of the actual instructions, but the moisture will help break down the waste more quickly. I add enough water to fill to the top once a day. This is an especially important step if you have looser soil that drains quickly.
  3. Add enzymes to the system weekly. I like the Four Paws Waste Manager tablets available here. You just add one tablet per dog per week with water.

Unfortunately, in-ground systems will only work in warm weather. If you live in a northern state like we do, you won’t be able to use the system over the winter. We typically stop using ours in late fall and begin using the system again in the spring.